Did you know that water damage can occur without your knowledge? Not all water damage comes from floods. While not nearly as dramatic, the results can be disastrous.
For example, what if a pipe bursts in your concrete slab foundation? You won’t necessarily know that a pipe has burst. If it was a hot water pipe, you might notice that the tile floor feels warmer than usual or the cat may have discovered a cozier new place to sleep. As the water seeps, it’s slowly doing its damage. Before long, you’ll notice cracked tiles or warped floor boards. Your cabinets may start rotting. The padding under the carpet might absorb just enough water to keep the floor from getting soaked. All the while, mold finds a moist place to grow.
Water damage can accumulate up in your attic or down in the basement without your knowledge as well. An unnoticed roof leak may not be severe enough to let water pour through the ceilings, yet it’s enough to damage the structure and insulation as well as give mold another ideal environment.
You’ll know it when a toilet overflows or the automatic fire sprinklers come on but you won’t necessarily know that you have hidden hazards slowly affecting your home. It’s smart to periodically inspect your home for water damage. Common areas to check include the attic and basement as well as any areas with plumbing such as under the sinks, behind the refrigerator, or in the closet where the water heater is installed.
Use your senses, especially your nose. Signs of water damage include peeling paint, peeling wallpaper, dots of mold, moisture, condensation, and a musty odor. Walk around the home wearing a sock on one foot and nothing on the other foot. Does the tile or wood floor feel warmer or cooler in any particular area? If so, there could be a water leak in the slab. When walking on the carpets, do you feel any moisture? Take off your sock and feel it, is it wet?
Finally, check your major appliances like your furnace and air conditioner. These systems generate condensation which usually collects in a pan or is plumbed into a drain. Occasionally, the condensate overflows.
If you’ve discovered hidden water damage, you will likely need repairs. Repairs could be as simple as replacing a few baseboards or as complex as a complete roof renovation. Call your insurance agent and see if your damage is covered and give Dryout a call for further assistance.
Chlorine Bleach Is the Best Way To Kill Mold – Right? Wrong!
So there is some black mold in your basement, laundry room, bathroom or around that pesky damp spot in your ceiling. No problem, just grab some of that mold killer you bought at the local grocery store, spray the black stuff and in a few minutes it turns brown, then vanishes – voila! You have killed the mold and have nothing more to worry about – right?
No, you bleached it you didn’t kill it. Chances are it is still there and growing like crazy. Don’t get me wrong, bleach kills mold just fine on hard surfaces like counter tops, shower tiles, etc. But on porous surfaces like walls, ceilings, concrete and wood, the chlorine gets the top of the mold, but the roots (called, “hyphae”) just go happily on, reproducing at a furious rate.
The chlorine you use around the house is only 6% chemical, the rest is water, and guess what mold roots like best? Yup, the 94% water you just fed them!
I know it sounds totally counterintuitive to everything you have learned (or seen), but even the EPA (who rates the chemicals and processes that kill mold) won’t give chlorine bleach products their seal of approval as a mold killer.
The mold remediation pros have known about this for a long time and they avoid the stuff (except sometimes as a biocide – bacteria killer).
And worse, chlorine eats everything it touches, skin, nasal membranes, it discolors many metals, fabrics and carpets. You already know what happens when you spill bleach on your favorite pair of slacks or antique area rug, but some folks think they might be able to use it on furniture. Unfortunately, much of our modern wood furniture is made of a nice veneer over particle board. Particle board swells when it is exposed to water – the same water that makes mold so happy.
One restoration professional told us about a home owner who decided to mix ammonia with bleach to really give black mold a run for its money. The mold didn’t seem to mind much, but the home owner ended up being the one on the run. In World War II they mixed ammonia with chlorine to make a deadly, eye burning, throat searing gas that drove the enemy out of the trenches!
In other articles we tell you more about what you can do to prevent mold, treat mold and avoid turning wet mold into clouds of airborne particles (like what happened in a government building when workers created a “sick building syndrome” from what started out as a simple case of black mold that got dried out and “fed” into the building’s air system!) But for now, just keep in mind that chlorine bleach is okay for hard surfaces only, and only when it is used by itself (no chemical cocktails!)
The best way for a beginner to deal with water damage is to be prepared before your living room gets turned into the world’s most shallow swimming pool!
First of all, do you know where your water shut-off valves are?
One night I was awakened by the sound of hissing coming from downstairs in my two-story home. Upon investigating I discovered that the wall-to-wall carpet in the family game room was submerged under about half an inch of water. The “hiss” was coming from a ruptured hose behind the washing machine in an adjacent room. I reached behind the machine, found the shut-off handle for the water and turned it as hard as I could. But, the mechanism must have been old and worn because a little water continued to flow from the small, but significant hole in the rubber pipe that fed the machine.
I had to find the main shut-off valve for the whole house. Did I know where it was? I did not.
I found it the next morning when I coaxed a plumber to come show me where it was.
Where is yours? It will probably be outside your home, in the ground, under a small, metal cover. Once you find it (or if you already know where it is) turn on a faucet that you can see or hear – maybe one attached to your sprinklers or a hose. Next, turn off the water from this main valve. There is a special tool you can get to turn the small handle, but I have done just fine with a vice grips or a good, large pliers.
Once you have turned it off and the water stops from the faucet you left running, you know you can do it – so, turn it back on again and go about your daily affairs knowing that you can save your home from a broken pipe if ever you need to.
But let’s say you have a night time leak and awaken to find water all over the place – it flowed under your television set, over the multi-plug that you have your computer, printer, monitor and scanners plugged into, it even saturated the carpets under the floor lamps in the living room. Don’t go there! Water and electric gadgets are a bad combination! So, can you get to the master power switch for the whole house without getting wet? Can you cut the power without sloshing through all the possible electric booby traps?
Perhaps you are way ahead of me, but do you know where your power cut off is for the house? Or do you know where the fuse box is? In short, can you shut down the power to all the electrical gadgets in your house? Do you know how to cut the power?
If not, you guessed it, now would be a good time to try it out – at least once. Perhaps you could show your spouse or kids (if they are old enough to be entrusted with this sort of emergency-only knowledge).
We have other articles about saving your precious belongings if water ever gets into your home, but for now, keep in mind that you and your family are the most precious things in your house, and just knowing these two simple pieces of pre-disaster technology can make a world of difference!
How to “Do it Yourself” – Water Damage Cleanup for Dummies
While hurricanes and floods are the cause of thousands of water damage claims each year, water damage isn’t limited to the wrath of storms. Burst pipes, clogged water lines, toppled water heaters, overflowing toilets, and automatic fire sprinklers also cause their fair share of flooding. Not only must you stop the water from flowing, you must also mop it up. Where to start? Here are a few pointers.
First, it’s important to shut off the water in order to minimize the water damage. This could be as simple as reaching behind the toilet and shutting off the valve or as complicated as locating the home’s main water shut off valve. Take the time now, before a flood, to locate the main shut off valve and learn how to shut off the water. This valve is usually located outside the home in a utility box. Contact your water utility if you are not able to locate it.
While you’re at it, find out where your home’s electrical fuse box or circuit box is located and learn how to turn off power to your home safely. Water and electricity are a deadly combination. Depending on the nature of the flooding, you may need to turn off power to certain areas of the home or the entire building.
Once you have the water and power shut off, you can begin mopping up. If the water is still dripping, take preventative action. For example, if the flood occurred upstairs and the water is seeping through the floor to the room below, place containers beneath to capture the water if possible or cover the carpet with a tarp and place towels on top to absorb the water. If the ceiling is sagging, it means that water is collecting there. It will eventually burst or seep through. Once the floor is protected, poke tiny holes in the ceiling and release the water.
Mop up the water damaged area using absorbent sponges or a wet/dry vacuum cleaner (if it’s safe to do so). Remove as much excess water as possible. Move furniture from the damaged area and dry it off completely. If the upholstery is damaged, remove the cushions, use absorbent sponges to soak up as much water as possible, and place outside to dry.
If the walls are affected, remove paintings and place them in a safe location. You may need to remove wallpaper and repaper the walls once everything has dried out due to the mold concerns.
Open the doors and windows if it’s dryer outside to help remove moisture and speed up the drying process. It’s critical to dry out the area completely to reduce the chance of mold setting in.
Now that you have the basic mop-up complete, you have a few phone calls to make. Call your insurance agent to see if the damage is covered and your local water restoration company to assist with repairs.
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Tips and Tricks for the Weekend Water Damage Dad
The flood waters have receded and the basic mop up is complete but yet your work has just begun. If you’re on your own for repairs and must take it one weekend at a time, here’s a basic plan to get you through the process.
First, is the home livable? If the water damage is localized or limited to a single room, your family can remain at home while you perform the repairs. If the water damage is widespread, you’ll need to find alternative arrangements.
Next, talk to your city’s planning department to find out if any permits are required and learn about the necessary building codes that you must follow.
Contact an electrician as you will possibly need electrical repairs.
Weekend #1
Gut it. You’ve already mopped up the area, right? Now that it’s dry, it’s time to peel away the damaged goods. Depending on the damage, this could involve removing wallpaper, drywall, baseboards, carpet, linoleum, etc. Before you can replace any of these items, you’ve got to do the prep work and clear out the space.
Weekend #2
Repair it. This includes both plumbing and electrical repairs. For example, if a pipe burst in the walls, you will have removed the drywall last weekend. Now, you have access to the damaged pipe. You’ve likely already performed emergency repairs to stop the water from flowing such as capping the line or turning off the water. Now’s your chance to replace the broken pipe.
The water most likely damaged your electrical outlets and lighting fixtures. Have a qualified electrician come in to evaluate and repair the electrical.
Weekend #3
Rebuild it. Once the plumbing and electrical have been repaired, you can begin rebuilding the space. Start at the top and work your way down, saving the floor for your last step. Seal windows, install drywall, and possibly install items that need replaced such as vanities. You may wish to install certain items after painting the room to make it easier to paint. Don’t install the baseboards just yet.
Prime and paint the room starting with the ceiling and finishing with the walls. By painting before re-tiling or re-carpeting the floor, you won’t have to worry about drips on the floor. Paint the baseboards separately and allow to dry completely. You’ll install them next weekend.
Weekend #4
Finish it. Now that the walls are back up and painted, it’s time to finish the job. This includes a second coat of paint if needed, wallpaper if desired, the installation of damaged items you may have postponed until after painting, laying the flooring, and installing the baseboards.
While this plan is a basic plan, it is adaptable. All water damage jobs, big and small, have the same basic elements: dry it out, gut it, repair it, rebuild it, and finish it. Whether you’re a weekend water damage dad or choose to hire someone to do it for you, these steps all come into play.
Tips for the Motivated Homeowner with Water Damage
So, you’ve got water damage. Now what? If you’re a motivated homeowner who wants to take charge of the situation, it’s important to understand what you’re about to experience. Water damage cleanup involves more than simply drying out soggy carpets. You’ll also have to deal with all kinds of flood-related problems including malfunctioning electrical systems, replacing damaged drywall, and preventing mold growth.
First, when returning home and discovering water damage, your first concern should be for your safety. Remember, water and electricity are a deadly combination. If the power is still on, the risk of electrocution is extremely high. If the power is out, make sure to keep it off until the home has been inspected by an electrician. Either way, contact your electrical utility before entering the home.
Is the home structurally sound and safe to enter? If not, don’t go in. It’s not worth risking your life. Another danger comes from gas. If you smell gas or hear hissing sounds, get out. Do not use any open flames until you can be sure that there aren’t any gas leaks or trapped gas. Contact your gas utility – after you’ve safely exited the home.
Once your home is safe to enter, the drying out process begins. Be careful entering as hidden damage is common, including damage to foundations. If you have flood insurance, take extensive pictures to document the damage. Everything that got wet must be either thrown away or cleaned and disinfected. Remember, floodwaters often contain sewage and chemicals. Throw away all food, even canned food, that has come in contact with the flood waters.
If you have a flood-damaged septic system, cess pool, or leaching system, get that serviced right away because these damaged systems are serious health hazards.
Get Rid of the Mud - Before drying out the home, get rid of the mud. This is best done before it dries. Shovel out as much as possible and then hose the home down – making sure that the electricity is off. You will later need an electrician to replace any damaged outlets. Don’t forget to hose out any heating or air conditioning ducts that have been
So the toilet overflowed what now! Well the first consideration is what type of water was it. In other words was there material in it. You know, was there anything brown or yellow in it? If there was, you have to clean the hard floors with a strong disinfectant. And, if the carpet got wet, well that’s a whole different chapter. For now let’s just stick with the type of water.
Professionals in the restoration business consider water to come in three different categories. Clear / Clean water, brown water and black water.
Clear and clean water is easy to determine. This category is water from the city or public water, water that has been treated with chlorine or other disinfectants. It’s been render suitable for drinking and washing with, if you’re your toilet tank leaked this is the type of water your probably dealing with.
Clear/clean water makes for an easy clean up and dryout. Just wipe up the water with a mop or broom and use fans to dry any floor covering like carpet. If you use towels to soak up the water, that’s fine, just remember to clean them because they picked up dirt from the floor. Don’t just throw then in the dryer, no, no.
You probably thinking brown water is just what it sounds like, but it’s not. Brown water is water that has come in contact with dirt or other contaminants. Just like the wet towels that you used to clean up the floor. That’s why you couldn’t just dry them.
Brown water usually looks clear. But don’t let it fool you. After the water touches dirt or other nastiness the water becomes brown, well still clear, just considered brown. In most normal cases cleaning can be done with soap and clear/clean water. That’s right; you’re beginning to get it. Clear/clean is your friend, the other two, are not. So, when the toilet overflows from the bowl its brown water.
Here’s the really bad one, black water. This category of water has the yellow and brown stuff floating in it. Not to mentioned all the other chemicals that we don’t want to come in contact with. They can be industrial items or just plain rotten food.
Black water requires a different standard of cleaning all together. As I mentioned earlier a strong disinfectant is the course of action to clean up hard surfaces. And, if the carpet did get wet, well you just need to get rid of it. If you don’t get rid of it, you risk getting sick from the black/brown water. Because you will never be able to completely clean the carpet or padding under it.
So remember, if it’s clear/ clean water you can probably handle it your self. If it’s brown or black water call a professional.
Experts at keeping robbers out, the bank got held up by some Water Damage
First Place Bank suffered water damage from a busted hot-water pipe in the early hours on Monday and was closed.
The office is located at 2 South Broad Street, at West Main Street (U.S. Route 224.)
Dominique Stoeber, executive vice president of retail delivery for the Warren-based bank, said the company is assessing the damage and will know more about the length of the closure today.
While the Canfield office is closed, customers will still be able to use the drive-up window and ATM machine at 352 West Main St. Monday through Friday 8 a.m. until 6 p.m. and Saturday 8 a.m. to noon.
In addition, First Place has extended its hours at the Seville Drive office, 3801 Boardman Canfield Road, about 2 miles to the east. The office will be open Monday through Friday 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday drive-thru hours 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Don Hutchison, assistant fire chief with the Cardinal Joint Fire District, said his department was called out at 3:25 a.m. for what appeared to be a fire coming out of the building’s roof but turned out to be steam from a hot-water heating system.
The system ruptured on the second floor of the two-story building, causing extensive damage on the second and first floors, as well as the basement, Hutchison said.
Firefighters turned off all of the utilities to the building, Hutchison said.
The bank said no damage was done to any safe deposit boxes, and safe deposit box customers will be contacted in the coming days to know of any plans to temporarily relocated the boxes.
The Damage should be repaired relatively soon and the bank back to normal operations.
The current rains and flooding have caused mold problems for some area residents. The wet conditions have produced a perfect storm effect.
Circumstances that sustain mold growth on various surfaces include warm temperatures of 77 to 86 degrees F., moisture or high humidity, and oxygen. Molds thrive on organic materials such as cotton and wool fibers, paper, leather and wood, or on surfaces that contain even tiny amounts of food, grease or soil. Mold growth can deteriorate wood and clothing.
If mold appears on walls or floors, first clean the surfaces with a detergent. Then, mix a solution of a quarter of a cup chlorine bleach (5.25 percent sodium hypochlorite) with one gallon of water to disinfect the area. Allow the solution to stay on the surface for 15 minutes before rinsing with clean water. Use a fan, dehumidifier and air conditioner to quickly dry the surface.
If the outdoor air is dry, a window can be opened to help promote drying. The chlorine/water solution will kill the mold. However, new mold growth will appear on the same surface if the conditions continue to be right for growth.
Taking corrective steps now, with cleaning and drying will reduce the overall damage.
Vandals flood vacant home causing $100,000 in damage
A vacant Bluffton home in foreclosure sustained $100,000 worth of water damage last week when drains were plugged and water faucets were left running intentionally, according to the Beaufort County Sheriff’s Office.
The abandoned and foreclosed Westbury Park home, which was for sale, was found April 7 with water covering the first floor, a sheriff’s report said.
An employee from Brokers Real Estate in Bluffton told deputies that all the sinks and tubs had been plugged with factory-installed stoppers. Water had been turned on, causing overflows.
The employee said he turned off all the water fixtures as well as the power to thehome on Westbury Park Way before notifying the Beaufort Jasper Water & Sewer Authority to shut off the main water supply, according to the report. The home was last sold in
November 2005 for $329,000, according to records from the Beaufort County Assessor’s Office.
The BJWSA employee who shut off the water told deputies the water meter registered nearly 71,000 gallons of water used. Based on the meter readings, he said, the incident date was likely April 4 — three days before the damage was discovered.
Beaufort County Sheriff P.J. Tanner said the vandalism seems to be an isolated event and not part of a national trend of vandalism to homes in foreclosure.
In a recent national survey, real
estate agents estimated that about half of foreclosed properties to be sold by mortgage companies have “substantial” damage, according to an article published March 28 in The Wall Street Journal.
“It’s not a trend around here,” Tanner said. “I hope it doesn’t start to be a trend.”
Sgt. Bryan Norberg of the Bluffton Police Department said his department has not responded to vandalism at foreclosed homes within at least the past six months.
Seven ways to lower you homeowner insurance from umbrella policy to water damage
In today’s economy saving on the basic things is a great way to stretch the dollar. Here are a few good ideas for doing just that.
From time to time you may choose to do a level of renovation on your house. Your reason may not be to reduce your home insurance premium. You simply love to see your home in excellent shape and that’s all.
Just be informed that you’re qualified for a lower premium once you do this. So ensure your agent is informed about it.
New homes and renovated houses will bring you cheaper rates always. However, since not all renovations are carried out to the same extent, the discounts offered will also vary.
Having your premium removed automatically from your account will get you lower rates. If you do NOT know how to do this, ask your banker or agent. This is strongly advised because of its convenience and the fact that it gets you a discount.
Every normal garage has oils, gas and other liquids that are highly inflammable in nature. So your home insurance rates will be lower if your garage is detached and at a safe distance from your main structure.
This is important even though it’s not part of a standard homeowners’ insurance policy: You’d be expected to get flood insurance at an additional $400 annually if you buy a house in a flood-prone area.
Every mortgagor will demand that you buy flood insurance if your house is in a flood-prone region. Making an adjustment in the area you get a house will make a huge difference on what you spend on insurance.
If you can purchase an umbrella policy and then reduce your home liability insurance you’ll save a lot. Why this is so much advised is that it even gives you better coverage for far less.
Home liability coverage is to take care of all who get injured on your property. Furthermore, if a lawsuit emerges from such an injury, it also takes care of it.
It does all these within a specified limit.
That is, you’ll have to fend for yourself if the coverage amount is exceeded (Which can happen quite easily these days).
On the other hand, an umbrella insurance policy always offers enough coverage limits that can always cover the craziest lawsuits for very insignificant premium.
Do regular checks on your plumbing and upgrade as soon as it becomes necessary. Reports show that water damage is the predominant claim on a homeowner’s policy.
Consequently, showing any insurer that your home has little or no risk of water damage will lead to a good discount. Be sure to inform your agent once you improve you plumbing system.
You can get lower quotes on home insurance today by visiting at least five quotes sites. Each site will require around 5 minutes or less to obtain and compare quotes. That’s all there is to it. However, you could realize savings hundreds of dollars this way.
So remember shop around for a good company, update your agent, and do the fix up jobs around the house you have been putting off, your wallet may be pleasantly surprised.
Infrared inspection can locate escaping heat to water damage and in some case even mold.
Through the magic of the advanced computer chip inside an infrared camera tempture difference are translated in to a color picture. The camera can see how much heat is escaping from your home or business, and how much cold air is seeping into the building, driving up the heating bill?
Home owners and small business owners alike these days are increasingly employing the services of infrared inspection specialists armed with infrared equipment that pinpoints where heat is escaping from a building.
On average, says Mark Decherd owner of National Infrared, the cost of the infrared inspection and subsequent repairs is paid off within two to three years in savings to heating fuel bills. On average, for example, an owner spending $100 a month on heating fuel will see the bill drop to $85, he said.
The same infrared apparatus can also be used for a building owner doing restoration after a fire to detect the presence of water damage to walls before tearing out sheetrock. Having this information may save the owner and/or an insurance company from having to pay for replacing portions of the home not damaged by water, Decherd said.
During an average examination, which takes about two hours, the infrared specialist will show the client the images on camera, pointing out where changes can be made to minimize heat loss.
Infrared inspections are particularly recommended for older homes built in the 1980s and before.
“The technology is so much more advanced now as far as quality of windows and insulation, and we are using much better vapor barrier,” Decherd said.
During a recent infrared inspection of an older home, Decherd pointed out places in every room where additional insulation would improve heat retention.
His specialized camera will highlight the smallest insulation breaches and fissures within walls and ceilings.
The infrared camera pinpoints and records places where warm air is escaping and cold air is coming in. The infrared energy inspector provides the client with a professional thermal report showing areas of the building where repairs are needed to lower heating bills. The client can then work with a service provider to upgrade the building’s energy efficiency.
The infrared camera will detect a lack of insulation in walls, around window frames and other areas, plus mold problems hidden behind walls and ceilings. While infrared imaging does not detect the actual molds, it will detect the issues associated with mold buildup.
Infrared thermography also provides clients the opportunity to assess the energy efficiency of their heating, ventilating and air conditioning systems, including the tightness of the ductwork located behind walls and ceilings.
And an infrared camera will locate thermal panes at the beginning stages of leaking insulated gasses, even if they have not yet visually shown the signs of condensation.
While using the infrared camera, Decherd also does a visual inspection of exposed duct systems, and will point out areas where resealing and further insulation is needed.
The thing to remember is that the infrared camera will show you things in a home that can not be seen with the human eye. And that is a great tool, just like an x-ray from a doctor.
12 responses so far ↓
1 Mark Decherd // Apr 18, 2008 at 8:47 pm
Detecting Hidden Water Damage
Did you know that water damage can occur without your knowledge? Not all water damage comes from floods. While not nearly as dramatic, the results can be disastrous.
For example, what if a pipe bursts in your concrete slab foundation? You won’t necessarily know that a pipe has burst. If it was a hot water pipe, you might notice that the tile floor feels warmer than usual or the cat may have discovered a cozier new place to sleep. As the water seeps, it’s slowly doing its damage. Before long, you’ll notice cracked tiles or warped floor boards. Your cabinets may start rotting. The padding under the carpet might absorb just enough water to keep the floor from getting soaked. All the while, mold finds a moist place to grow.
Water damage can accumulate up in your attic or down in the basement without your knowledge as well. An unnoticed roof leak may not be severe enough to let water pour through the ceilings, yet it’s enough to damage the structure and insulation as well as give mold another ideal environment.
You’ll know it when a toilet overflows or the automatic fire sprinklers come on but you won’t necessarily know that you have hidden hazards slowly affecting your home. It’s smart to periodically inspect your home for water damage. Common areas to check include the attic and basement as well as any areas with plumbing such as under the sinks, behind the refrigerator, or in the closet where the water heater is installed.
Use your senses, especially your nose. Signs of water damage include peeling paint, peeling wallpaper, dots of mold, moisture, condensation, and a musty odor. Walk around the home wearing a sock on one foot and nothing on the other foot. Does the tile or wood floor feel warmer or cooler in any particular area? If so, there could be a water leak in the slab. When walking on the carpets, do you feel any moisture? Take off your sock and feel it, is it wet?
Finally, check your major appliances like your furnace and air conditioner. These systems generate condensation which usually collects in a pan or is plumbed into a drain. Occasionally, the condensate overflows.
If you’ve discovered hidden water damage, you will likely need repairs. Repairs could be as simple as replacing a few baseboards or as complex as a complete roof renovation. Call your insurance agent and see if your damage is covered and give Dryout a call for further assistance.
2 Water Damage // Apr 18, 2008 at 8:49 pm
Chlorine Bleach Is the Best Way To Kill Mold – Right? Wrong!
So there is some black mold in your basement, laundry room, bathroom or around that pesky damp spot in your ceiling. No problem, just grab some of that mold killer you bought at the local grocery store, spray the black stuff and in a few minutes it turns brown, then vanishes – voila! You have killed the mold and have nothing more to worry about – right?
No, you bleached it you didn’t kill it. Chances are it is still there and growing like crazy. Don’t get me wrong, bleach kills mold just fine on hard surfaces like counter tops, shower tiles, etc. But on porous surfaces like walls, ceilings, concrete and wood, the chlorine gets the top of the mold, but the roots (called, “hyphae”) just go happily on, reproducing at a furious rate.
The chlorine you use around the house is only 6% chemical, the rest is water, and guess what mold roots like best? Yup, the 94% water you just fed them!
I know it sounds totally counterintuitive to everything you have learned (or seen), but even the EPA (who rates the chemicals and processes that kill mold) won’t give chlorine bleach products their seal of approval as a mold killer.
The mold remediation pros have known about this for a long time and they avoid the stuff (except sometimes as a biocide – bacteria killer).
And worse, chlorine eats everything it touches, skin, nasal membranes, it discolors many metals, fabrics and carpets. You already know what happens when you spill bleach on your favorite pair of slacks or antique area rug, but some folks think they might be able to use it on furniture. Unfortunately, much of our modern wood furniture is made of a nice veneer over particle board. Particle board swells when it is exposed to water – the same water that makes mold so happy.
One restoration professional told us about a home owner who decided to mix ammonia with bleach to really give black mold a run for its money. The mold didn’t seem to mind much, but the home owner ended up being the one on the run. In World War II they mixed ammonia with chlorine to make a deadly, eye burning, throat searing gas that drove the enemy out of the trenches!
In other articles we tell you more about what you can do to prevent mold, treat mold and avoid turning wet mold into clouds of airborne particles (like what happened in a government building when workers created a “sick building syndrome” from what started out as a simple case of black mold that got dried out and “fed” into the building’s air system!) But for now, just keep in mind that chlorine bleach is okay for hard surfaces only, and only when it is used by itself (no chemical cocktails!)
3 Water Damage // Apr 18, 2008 at 8:49 pm
Water Damage 101
The best way for a beginner to deal with water damage is to be prepared before your living room gets turned into the world’s most shallow swimming pool!
First of all, do you know where your water shut-off valves are?
One night I was awakened by the sound of hissing coming from downstairs in my two-story home. Upon investigating I discovered that the wall-to-wall carpet in the family game room was submerged under about half an inch of water. The “hiss” was coming from a ruptured hose behind the washing machine in an adjacent room. I reached behind the machine, found the shut-off handle for the water and turned it as hard as I could. But, the mechanism must have been old and worn because a little water continued to flow from the small, but significant hole in the rubber pipe that fed the machine.
I had to find the main shut-off valve for the whole house. Did I know where it was? I did not.
I found it the next morning when I coaxed a plumber to come show me where it was.
Where is yours? It will probably be outside your home, in the ground, under a small, metal cover. Once you find it (or if you already know where it is) turn on a faucet that you can see or hear – maybe one attached to your sprinklers or a hose. Next, turn off the water from this main valve. There is a special tool you can get to turn the small handle, but I have done just fine with a vice grips or a good, large pliers.
Once you have turned it off and the water stops from the faucet you left running, you know you can do it – so, turn it back on again and go about your daily affairs knowing that you can save your home from a broken pipe if ever you need to.
But let’s say you have a night time leak and awaken to find water all over the place – it flowed under your television set, over the multi-plug that you have your computer, printer, monitor and scanners plugged into, it even saturated the carpets under the floor lamps in the living room. Don’t go there! Water and electric gadgets are a bad combination! So, can you get to the master power switch for the whole house without getting wet? Can you cut the power without sloshing through all the possible electric booby traps?
Perhaps you are way ahead of me, but do you know where your power cut off is for the house? Or do you know where the fuse box is? In short, can you shut down the power to all the electrical gadgets in your house? Do you know how to cut the power?
If not, you guessed it, now would be a good time to try it out – at least once. Perhaps you could show your spouse or kids (if they are old enough to be entrusted with this sort of emergency-only knowledge).
We have other articles about saving your precious belongings if water ever gets into your home, but for now, keep in mind that you and your family are the most precious things in your house, and just knowing these two simple pieces of pre-disaster technology can make a world of difference!
4 Water Damage // Apr 18, 2008 at 8:49 pm
How to “Do it Yourself” – Water Damage Cleanup for Dummies
While hurricanes and floods are the cause of thousands of water damage claims each year, water damage isn’t limited to the wrath of storms. Burst pipes, clogged water lines, toppled water heaters, overflowing toilets, and automatic fire sprinklers also cause their fair share of flooding. Not only must you stop the water from flowing, you must also mop it up. Where to start? Here are a few pointers.
First, it’s important to shut off the water in order to minimize the water damage. This could be as simple as reaching behind the toilet and shutting off the valve or as complicated as locating the home’s main water shut off valve. Take the time now, before a flood, to locate the main shut off valve and learn how to shut off the water. This valve is usually located outside the home in a utility box. Contact your water utility if you are not able to locate it.
While you’re at it, find out where your home’s electrical fuse box or circuit box is located and learn how to turn off power to your home safely. Water and electricity are a deadly combination. Depending on the nature of the flooding, you may need to turn off power to certain areas of the home or the entire building.
Once you have the water and power shut off, you can begin mopping up. If the water is still dripping, take preventative action. For example, if the flood occurred upstairs and the water is seeping through the floor to the room below, place containers beneath to capture the water if possible or cover the carpet with a tarp and place towels on top to absorb the water. If the ceiling is sagging, it means that water is collecting there. It will eventually burst or seep through. Once the floor is protected, poke tiny holes in the ceiling and release the water.
Mop up the water damaged area using absorbent sponges or a wet/dry vacuum cleaner (if it’s safe to do so). Remove as much excess water as possible. Move furniture from the damaged area and dry it off completely. If the upholstery is damaged, remove the cushions, use absorbent sponges to soak up as much water as possible, and place outside to dry.
If the walls are affected, remove paintings and place them in a safe location. You may need to remove wallpaper and repaper the walls once everything has dried out due to the mold concerns.
Open the doors and windows if it’s dryer outside to help remove moisture and speed up the drying process. It’s critical to dry out the area completely to reduce the chance of mold setting in.
Now that you have the basic mop-up complete, you have a few phone calls to make. Call your insurance agent to see if the damage is covered and your local water restoration company to assist with repairs.
5 Water Damage // Apr 18, 2008 at 8:50 pm
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Tips and Tricks for the Weekend Water Damage Dad
The flood waters have receded and the basic mop up is complete but yet your work has just begun. If you’re on your own for repairs and must take it one weekend at a time, here’s a basic plan to get you through the process.
First, is the home livable? If the water damage is localized or limited to a single room, your family can remain at home while you perform the repairs. If the water damage is widespread, you’ll need to find alternative arrangements.
Next, talk to your city’s planning department to find out if any permits are required and learn about the necessary building codes that you must follow.
Contact an electrician as you will possibly need electrical repairs.
Weekend #1
Gut it. You’ve already mopped up the area, right? Now that it’s dry, it’s time to peel away the damaged goods. Depending on the damage, this could involve removing wallpaper, drywall, baseboards, carpet, linoleum, etc. Before you can replace any of these items, you’ve got to do the prep work and clear out the space.
Weekend #2
Repair it. This includes both plumbing and electrical repairs. For example, if a pipe burst in the walls, you will have removed the drywall last weekend. Now, you have access to the damaged pipe. You’ve likely already performed emergency repairs to stop the water from flowing such as capping the line or turning off the water. Now’s your chance to replace the broken pipe.
The water most likely damaged your electrical outlets and lighting fixtures. Have a qualified electrician come in to evaluate and repair the electrical.
Weekend #3
Rebuild it. Once the plumbing and electrical have been repaired, you can begin rebuilding the space. Start at the top and work your way down, saving the floor for your last step. Seal windows, install drywall, and possibly install items that need replaced such as vanities. You may wish to install certain items after painting the room to make it easier to paint. Don’t install the baseboards just yet.
Prime and paint the room starting with the ceiling and finishing with the walls. By painting before re-tiling or re-carpeting the floor, you won’t have to worry about drips on the floor. Paint the baseboards separately and allow to dry completely. You’ll install them next weekend.
Weekend #4
Finish it. Now that the walls are back up and painted, it’s time to finish the job. This includes a second coat of paint if needed, wallpaper if desired, the installation of damaged items you may have postponed until after painting, laying the flooring, and installing the baseboards.
While this plan is a basic plan, it is adaptable. All water damage jobs, big and small, have the same basic elements: dry it out, gut it, repair it, rebuild it, and finish it. Whether you’re a weekend water damage dad or choose to hire someone to do it for you, these steps all come into play.
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6 Water Damage // Apr 18, 2008 at 8:51 pm
Tips for the Motivated Homeowner with Water Damage
So, you’ve got water damage. Now what? If you’re a motivated homeowner who wants to take charge of the situation, it’s important to understand what you’re about to experience. Water damage cleanup involves more than simply drying out soggy carpets. You’ll also have to deal with all kinds of flood-related problems including malfunctioning electrical systems, replacing damaged drywall, and preventing mold growth.
First, when returning home and discovering water damage, your first concern should be for your safety. Remember, water and electricity are a deadly combination. If the power is still on, the risk of electrocution is extremely high. If the power is out, make sure to keep it off until the home has been inspected by an electrician. Either way, contact your electrical utility before entering the home.
Is the home structurally sound and safe to enter? If not, don’t go in. It’s not worth risking your life. Another danger comes from gas. If you smell gas or hear hissing sounds, get out. Do not use any open flames until you can be sure that there aren’t any gas leaks or trapped gas. Contact your gas utility – after you’ve safely exited the home.
Once your home is safe to enter, the drying out process begins. Be careful entering as hidden damage is common, including damage to foundations. If you have flood insurance, take extensive pictures to document the damage. Everything that got wet must be either thrown away or cleaned and disinfected. Remember, floodwaters often contain sewage and chemicals. Throw away all food, even canned food, that has come in contact with the flood waters.
If you have a flood-damaged septic system, cess pool, or leaching system, get that serviced right away because these damaged systems are serious health hazards.
Get Rid of the Mud - Before drying out the home, get rid of the mud. This is best done before it dries. Shovel out as much as possible and then hose the home down – making sure that the electricity is off. You will later need an electrician to replace any damaged outlets. Don’t forget to hose out any heating or air conditioning ducts that have been
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7 Water Damage // Apr 18, 2008 at 8:52 pm
What type of water is it?
So the toilet overflowed what now! Well the first consideration is what type of water was it. In other words was there material in it. You know, was there anything brown or yellow in it? If there was, you have to clean the hard floors with a strong disinfectant. And, if the carpet got wet, well that’s a whole different chapter. For now let’s just stick with the type of water.
Professionals in the restoration business consider water to come in three different categories. Clear / Clean water, brown water and black water.
Clear and clean water is easy to determine. This category is water from the city or public water, water that has been treated with chlorine or other disinfectants. It’s been render suitable for drinking and washing with, if you’re your toilet tank leaked this is the type of water your probably dealing with.
Clear/clean water makes for an easy clean up and dryout. Just wipe up the water with a mop or broom and use fans to dry any floor covering like carpet. If you use towels to soak up the water, that’s fine, just remember to clean them because they picked up dirt from the floor. Don’t just throw then in the dryer, no, no.
You probably thinking brown water is just what it sounds like, but it’s not. Brown water is water that has come in contact with dirt or other contaminants. Just like the wet towels that you used to clean up the floor. That’s why you couldn’t just dry them.
Brown water usually looks clear. But don’t let it fool you. After the water touches dirt or other nastiness the water becomes brown, well still clear, just considered brown. In most normal cases cleaning can be done with soap and clear/clean water. That’s right; you’re beginning to get it. Clear/clean is your friend, the other two, are not. So, when the toilet overflows from the bowl its brown water.
Here’s the really bad one, black water. This category of water has the yellow and brown stuff floating in it. Not to mentioned all the other chemicals that we don’t want to come in contact with. They can be industrial items or just plain rotten food.
Black water requires a different standard of cleaning all together. As I mentioned earlier a strong disinfectant is the course of action to clean up hard surfaces. And, if the carpet did get wet, well you just need to get rid of it. If you don’t get rid of it, you risk getting sick from the black/brown water. Because you will never be able to completely clean the carpet or padding under it.
So remember, if it’s clear/ clean water you can probably handle it your self. If it’s brown or black water call a professional.
By Mark Decherd
8 Water Damage // Apr 18, 2008 at 9:02 pm
Experts at keeping robbers out, the bank got held up by some Water Damage
First Place Bank suffered water damage from a busted hot-water pipe in the early hours on Monday and was closed.
The office is located at 2 South Broad Street, at West Main Street (U.S. Route 224.)
Dominique Stoeber, executive vice president of retail delivery for the Warren-based bank, said the company is assessing the damage and will know more about the length of the closure today.
While the Canfield office is closed, customers will still be able to use the drive-up window and ATM machine at 352 West Main St. Monday through Friday 8 a.m. until 6 p.m. and Saturday 8 a.m. to noon.
In addition, First Place has extended its hours at the Seville Drive office, 3801 Boardman Canfield Road, about 2 miles to the east. The office will be open Monday through Friday 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday drive-thru hours 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Don Hutchison, assistant fire chief with the Cardinal Joint Fire District, said his department was called out at 3:25 a.m. for what appeared to be a fire coming out of the building’s roof but turned out to be steam from a hot-water heating system.
The system ruptured on the second floor of the two-story building, causing extensive damage on the second and first floors, as well as the basement, Hutchison said.
Firefighters turned off all of the utilities to the building, Hutchison said.
The bank said no damage was done to any safe deposit boxes, and safe deposit box customers will be contacted in the coming days to know of any plans to temporarily relocated the boxes.
The Damage should be repaired relatively soon and the bank back to normal operations.
9 Water Damage // Apr 18, 2008 at 9:03 pm
Mold growth often sets in after flooding
The current rains and flooding have caused mold problems for some area residents. The wet conditions have produced a perfect storm effect.
Circumstances that sustain mold growth on various surfaces include warm temperatures of 77 to 86 degrees F., moisture or high humidity, and oxygen. Molds thrive on organic materials such as cotton and wool fibers, paper, leather and wood, or on surfaces that contain even tiny amounts of food, grease or soil. Mold growth can deteriorate wood and clothing.
If mold appears on walls or floors, first clean the surfaces with a detergent. Then, mix a solution of a quarter of a cup chlorine bleach (5.25 percent sodium hypochlorite) with one gallon of water to disinfect the area. Allow the solution to stay on the surface for 15 minutes before rinsing with clean water. Use a fan, dehumidifier and air conditioner to quickly dry the surface.
If the outdoor air is dry, a window can be opened to help promote drying. The chlorine/water solution will kill the mold. However, new mold growth will appear on the same surface if the conditions continue to be right for growth.
Taking corrective steps now, with cleaning and drying will reduce the overall damage.
10 Water Damage // Apr 18, 2008 at 9:03 pm
Vandals flood vacant home causing $100,000 in damage
A vacant Bluffton home in foreclosure sustained $100,000 worth of water damage last week when drains were plugged and water faucets were left running intentionally, according to the Beaufort County Sheriff’s Office.
The abandoned and foreclosed Westbury Park home, which was for sale, was found April 7 with water covering the first floor, a sheriff’s report said.
An employee from Brokers Real Estate in Bluffton told deputies that all the sinks and tubs had been plugged with factory-installed stoppers. Water had been turned on, causing overflows.
The employee said he turned off all the water fixtures as well as the power to thehome on Westbury Park Way before notifying the Beaufort Jasper Water & Sewer Authority to shut off the main water supply, according to the report. The home was last sold in
November 2005 for $329,000, according to records from the Beaufort County Assessor’s Office.
The BJWSA employee who shut off the water told deputies the water meter registered nearly 71,000 gallons of water used. Based on the meter readings, he said, the incident date was likely April 4 — three days before the damage was discovered.
Beaufort County Sheriff P.J. Tanner said the vandalism seems to be an isolated event and not part of a national trend of vandalism to homes in foreclosure.
In a recent national survey, real
estate agents estimated that about half of foreclosed properties to be sold by mortgage companies have “substantial” damage, according to an article published March 28 in The Wall Street Journal.
“It’s not a trend around here,” Tanner said. “I hope it doesn’t start to be a trend.”
Sgt. Bryan Norberg of the Bluffton Police Department said his department has not responded to vandalism at foreclosed homes within at least the past six months.
So far there are no suspects in the case.
11 Water Damage // Apr 18, 2008 at 9:04 pm
Seven ways to lower you homeowner insurance from umbrella policy to water damage
In today’s economy saving on the basic things is a great way to stretch the dollar. Here are a few good ideas for doing just that.
From time to time you may choose to do a level of renovation on your house. Your reason may not be to reduce your home insurance premium. You simply love to see your home in excellent shape and that’s all.
Just be informed that you’re qualified for a lower premium once you do this. So ensure your agent is informed about it.
New homes and renovated houses will bring you cheaper rates always. However, since not all renovations are carried out to the same extent, the discounts offered will also vary.
Having your premium removed automatically from your account will get you lower rates. If you do NOT know how to do this, ask your banker or agent. This is strongly advised because of its convenience and the fact that it gets you a discount.
Every normal garage has oils, gas and other liquids that are highly inflammable in nature. So your home insurance rates will be lower if your garage is detached and at a safe distance from your main structure.
This is important even though it’s not part of a standard homeowners’ insurance policy: You’d be expected to get flood insurance at an additional $400 annually if you buy a house in a flood-prone area.
Every mortgagor will demand that you buy flood insurance if your house is in a flood-prone region. Making an adjustment in the area you get a house will make a huge difference on what you spend on insurance.
If you can purchase an umbrella policy and then reduce your home liability insurance you’ll save a lot. Why this is so much advised is that it even gives you better coverage for far less.
Home liability coverage is to take care of all who get injured on your property. Furthermore, if a lawsuit emerges from such an injury, it also takes care of it.
It does all these within a specified limit.
That is, you’ll have to fend for yourself if the coverage amount is exceeded (Which can happen quite easily these days).
On the other hand, an umbrella insurance policy always offers enough coverage limits that can always cover the craziest lawsuits for very insignificant premium.
Do regular checks on your plumbing and upgrade as soon as it becomes necessary. Reports show that water damage is the predominant claim on a homeowner’s policy.
Consequently, showing any insurer that your home has little or no risk of water damage will lead to a good discount. Be sure to inform your agent once you improve you plumbing system.
You can get lower quotes on home insurance today by visiting at least five quotes sites. Each site will require around 5 minutes or less to obtain and compare quotes. That’s all there is to it. However, you could realize savings hundreds of dollars this way.
So remember shop around for a good company, update your agent, and do the fix up jobs around the house you have been putting off, your wallet may be pleasantly surprised.
12 Water Damage // Apr 18, 2008 at 9:04 pm
Infrared inspection can locate escaping heat to water damage and in some case even mold.
Through the magic of the advanced computer chip inside an infrared camera tempture difference are translated in to a color picture. The camera can see how much heat is escaping from your home or business, and how much cold air is seeping into the building, driving up the heating bill?
Home owners and small business owners alike these days are increasingly employing the services of infrared inspection specialists armed with infrared equipment that pinpoints where heat is escaping from a building.
On average, says Mark Decherd owner of National Infrared, the cost of the infrared inspection and subsequent repairs is paid off within two to three years in savings to heating fuel bills. On average, for example, an owner spending $100 a month on heating fuel will see the bill drop to $85, he said.
The same infrared apparatus can also be used for a building owner doing restoration after a fire to detect the presence of water damage to walls before tearing out sheetrock. Having this information may save the owner and/or an insurance company from having to pay for replacing portions of the home not damaged by water, Decherd said.
During an average examination, which takes about two hours, the infrared specialist will show the client the images on camera, pointing out where changes can be made to minimize heat loss.
Infrared inspections are particularly recommended for older homes built in the 1980s and before.
“The technology is so much more advanced now as far as quality of windows and insulation, and we are using much better vapor barrier,” Decherd said.
During a recent infrared inspection of an older home, Decherd pointed out places in every room where additional insulation would improve heat retention.
His specialized camera will highlight the smallest insulation breaches and fissures within walls and ceilings.
The infrared camera pinpoints and records places where warm air is escaping and cold air is coming in. The infrared energy inspector provides the client with a professional thermal report showing areas of the building where repairs are needed to lower heating bills. The client can then work with a service provider to upgrade the building’s energy efficiency.
The infrared camera will detect a lack of insulation in walls, around window frames and other areas, plus mold problems hidden behind walls and ceilings. While infrared imaging does not detect the actual molds, it will detect the issues associated with mold buildup.
Infrared thermography also provides clients the opportunity to assess the energy efficiency of their heating, ventilating and air conditioning systems, including the tightness of the ductwork located behind walls and ceilings.
And an infrared camera will locate thermal panes at the beginning stages of leaking insulated gasses, even if they have not yet visually shown the signs of condensation.
While using the infrared camera, Decherd also does a visual inspection of exposed duct systems, and will point out areas where resealing and further insulation is needed.
The thing to remember is that the infrared camera will show you things in a home that can not be seen with the human eye. And that is a great tool, just like an x-ray from a doctor.
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